In Italian fashion

In Italian fashion
Article By: Thamar Houliston
Tue, 15 Jul 2008 13:11

Italian food is more a way of life than necessity. It's a realisation of pleasure and an indulgence of flavours, which satisfies a hunger for the comfort of home and fills you with warmth like only good Italian cuisine can.

Having recently read Elizabeth Gilbert's book — 'Eat, Pay, Love' — where she starts her journey of self discovery by visiting Italy and eating heartily, I couldn't wait to indulge my senses at Doppio Zero, a new eatery at Cavendish Connect in Cape Town.

Now one thing about Italian fare is the company that it keeps — usually a relaxed setting filled with family and friends and lots of merry laughing and sharing.

The night my mother and I visited the restaurant, come bakery, come gelateria, it was rather quiet, except for a handful intimate tables, but the waiter assured us that on the weekends it hums with activity.

Doppio Zero is a fairly romantic spot which is ideal for an after-movie dinner or light lunch, and considering their selection of melt-in-your-mouth breads — including ciabatta, buttermilk and barley rye, sour dough, rolled focaccia and Turkish bread — it's a lovely breakfast spot.

In high spirits we noticed the cocktail menu which listed the usuals, plus the usuals with a twist. I went straight for the Ginger and Honey Capriniha to warm me up on a somewhat chilly evening, but directed my mother towards the classic Strawberry Daiquiri. And what do you know — they were almost as good as the concoctions found on the Camps Bay strip.

In anticipation

To start we decided (the veggie lovers that we are) to share a salad. The nice thing is that you can order a salad as a starter or a main, which is not something you usually find at restaurants.

Tempted by the more exotic Melon and Mozzarella salad (starter R39, main R48); and almost set upon the more traditional Tricolore (R38, R46) which consists of fresh slices of mozzarella, tomato and avo with olive oil and balsamic vinegar; we decided on the rather ordinary Salmon and Avo salad — which turned out to be mediocre except for the addition of capers which worked well.

We skipped the array of antipasti, which included soups, focaccia, chicken livers, calamari, and Hummus and Tahini Tramezzini, to name a few.

A modern spin

Like any good Italian eatery, Doppia Zero has a host of pizza and pasta dishes to choose from, and like any truly modern eatery, it offers an option of wheat-free pasta — best of both worlds I'd say.

Although the Penne con Filetto (strips of fillet, sundried tomato, oregano, chilli and Napolentana priced at R69) sounded appealing, my mother opted for the Tagliatelle alla Normanna (fresh egg pasta with brinjals, olives, tomatoes, garlic, chilli, basil and ricotta priced at R50) — the rich tomato, smoky brinjal and neighbouring soft ricotta producing a smile on her face.

I ogled the list of mains passing the fillet options (wrapped, reduced, and grilled), as well as the veal, chicken and fish choices, and settled on Calamari in Cajun Cream Sauce (R68).

A wise choice indeed, the creamy sauce with a zest of spice transformed the calamari into a winter delicacy. It was accompanied by rice and golden roasted veggies (thankfully not the kind that's mashed with cream — pure sacrilege if you ask me).

Chocolate oh my chocolate

Now there's only one problem with taking my mother to dinner —she's a chocolate mousse fanatic, so it's impossible to tempt her with any other dessert. And of course we were so full we had to share. The waiter tried to tempt us with their special gelato with balsamic vinegar, black pepper and berries, but it was never going to happen.

As wished, the chocolate mousse dessert was rich and decadent, and almost unconquerable...

Two decaf cappuccinos later we left with a handful of ciabatta 'on the house' and a cheerful feeling in our bellies.

The service at Doppia Zero was pleasant but slow, the food definitely recommended, and the atmosphere and décor delightful. And make sure you demand some bread, it's worth a try.

Doppio Zero is located at Shop G2 and G4, Dreyer Street, Cavendish Connect, Claremont and you can contact them on +27 21 683 6527 or visit www.doppio.co.za. Other branches are in Bedfordview, Greenside, Irene, Rosebank, Sunninghill, Fourways and Northriding.

Die Ou Pastorie

Die Ou Pastorie
Article By: Thamar Houliston
Fri, 08 Feb 2008 14:29

The town of Somerset West, set between Stellenbosch and Gordon's Bay is neither here nor there on the map of tourist attractions — not really a part of the winelands route and just short of the coast. But there are two things that Somerset West is renowned for: its incredible hospitality and 'tranquillity'.

Looking for Die Ou Pastorie last Saturday afternoon we trawled the streets of Somerset West, wondering where on earth they could have a guesthouse in this somewhat industrial area.

My partner, who unlike me has navigation skills, managed to set us straight, and, as we drove along hot and tired, we could see Die Ou Pastorie — an oasis of cool at the end of the street.

Originally built as the local parsonage in 1819, the building still carries a simple, yet welcoming persona. The addition of eight classic and seven deluxe en-suite rooms, all in a quaint garden setting, completes the 'country house'.

Unlike some of the commercial bed and breakfasts in the city, co-owner Chretien Ploum made the time to come and greet us, something that guests really value, but which often fails to happen.

Set in a rose garden

Our room, decorated in a Victorian style, complemented the boutique country-house feel. The room opened onto a patio which overlooks the rose garden, and allows you to access the pool and the dining area promptly — as we found after a bottle of cherished Krone bubbly.

By this time the garden had taken on a more romantic character, with candlelight from the restaurant creating that fairy effect, although honestly it could have been the bubbly...

Relating to taste

Die Ou Pastorie Restaurant which locals in the area had classified as 'fine dining', rendering it unaffordable except for 'those special occasions' has been transformed into a modern bistro and wine bar.

Under the helm of Executive Chef Glen Ferus, the same staff remain (thankfully as the service would not be the same without old Rosie, who's been there for almost 20 years) but the style of the restaurant as well as the menu has changed to include a more 'modern take on old classics' — at a price that people feel comfortable paying.

New owners Chretien Ploum and Shybon George, who took over recently (October 2007), have renamed it — 'XO modern bistro and wine bar' — with the addition of the trendy wine bar still to come, which will no doubt be a hit with locals looking for good wine by the glass.

Says Chretien about the new menu: "The concept stems from France, where top chefs and owners of Michelin star restaurants decided to go back to the classics and put them in a modern jacket, rather than continuing to serve the fusion-style foods to which less and less people can relate."

Dinner for two

We ordered the Waterford Pecan Stream to start off our meal at XO. It was heavenly — light and refreshing yet flavoursome, not something you usually find in a Chenin Blanc. Our waiter handled the wine with appreciation which was refreshing.

For starters we opted for the Franschhoek salmon trout terrine with spinach, Cape gooseberries and herb salad (R42); and the Shredded lamb shoulder flour tortilla with cranberry and mint sauce (R34) — the latter a definite must-try.

To go with mains we chose the Asara Cape Fusion, which was also a wise choice, especially since it came in a 375ml bottle.

We tried the Linefish of the day — Kabeljou — served with creamy wild mushroom risotto, Chardonnay butter sauce and seasonal vegetables to boot; as well as the more standard Grilled beef tenderloin fillet with potato wedges. Both came with some artistic veggies served in little frying pans on the side. The fish was priced at R79 and the tenderloin at R85 for the 200 gram choice, while the 300 gram fillet was a little more pricey at R105. The food was "excellent" — my partner agreed, a smile of merriment on his face.

We were forced to skip the cheese platters 'of your choice' due to lack of available space, but we had to try the Galliano Créme Bruléé (R35). It did not disappoint. The classic version infused with Italian liqueur, it brought a homely feeling to our tastebuds and that sleeping feeling to our eyelids...

A wine bar and more...

Ready for bed we made our way to our room only to bump into Chretien and Shybon who were on the patio where they were enjoying the warm evening while thanking customers who were on their way home.

Chretien hails from a small town, Kerkrade, on the Dutch-German border in the southern part of the Netherlands and was literally born into hospitality — his father being a chef.

Whilst on a holiday in South Africa in 1996 he joined the opening-team at The Table Bay Hotel and after that did a five-year stint on the ship — 'The World'. After retiring from ship life he started a hospitality consulting firm, before he, and his soon to be wife Shybon, decided they needed a new challenge and found Die Ou Pastorie.

And they have big plans for Die Ou Pastorie. "Shybon and my vision for Die Ou Pastorie is to turn it into an establishment that people seek out for its tranquility, whilst being offered all the luxuries that one would expect from a boutique luxury hotel. A five-year plan has been put together to enhance the existing facilities in both public areas in the main house, as well as the rooms. Thus, Die Ou Pastorie will become a destination in its own right," says Chretien.

We look forward to heading back to Die Ou Pastorie soon to see what progress has been made, or simply just to try more of their wonderful menu and enjoy a glass of wine on the patio under the tranquil night sky...

Die Ou Pastorie, is situated at 41 Lourens Street, Somerset West. To make a booking call them on +27 12 207 1027.

Made with passion

Made with passion
Article By: Thamar Houliston
Thu, 06 Dec 2007 14:02

There's certainly something to be said about the 'experience' of wine and the sentimentality one attaches to it, or perhaps just one's admiration for the label, based on the circumstances under which you first enjoyed it.

Take for example my friend Dylan's experience of Juno wines, which was less about the taste than the fact that he'd found the little wine shop on the way back from a majestic weekend in Cape Agulhas. He came home starry-eyed, raving about the wine and bought a box to boot — despite the fact he spent more on it than he would have at Pick 'n Pay.

Passion in Heritage

When I was invited to visit the group of Cape Heritage Wine farms, I honestly had no idea what to expect. I've tried a 'fair' amount of wines in my time — from Tassies to Thelema, but still wasn't sure what I would make of these boutique farms' fare — distastefully referred to as 'Garagistes'.

The group consists of Rico Suter, Mason's, Blyde, Retief and Hoopenburg — which is somewhat removed from the group being a big name, but is still connected by history, geography and passion.

We arrived at Rico Suter's winery — a space not much bigger than a house — way out in the Breedekloof. Rico who hails from Switzerland originally, settled here and decided to pursue his love for wine and paragliding.

He's an amiable winemaker with a magic touch. His wines are well known in the European market, and when we arrived told us how he'd just come back from Italy where he'd attended a dinner party and all his bottles were polished off — a testament to joyful wine.

With Waaihoek Mountain peering curiously at us, Rico began to open barrels for us to taste — Pinotage, Merlot, Shiraz and Petit Verdot. After two and a half hours I was still in awe of what I was tasting — wine that is touched with talent, and a most delightful Shiraz that seemed to roll on my tongue — lingering for ages…

Character wines

Next on the list was Mason's, made by Derek Clift at his beautiful Cape Dutch farm — literally on Paarl's high street. Made from the grapes of the De Hoop farm on the upper slopes of Paarl Mountain, Mason's was born out of a pure curiosity for wine making.

As the story goes, Lieb Loots of Blyde, Graham Retief and a few others all met at Mason's place to start their own labels as a hobby and an experiment. When Derek produced his maiden wine — Mason's Hill 2001 — and won a Double Gold Veritas, he knew he was onto something.

Derek, who is extremely passionate about his trade, believes that his wines are for the discerning wine drinker who is able to appreciate the way in which the climate and season lends each vintage its character.

He does comment that it's not easy having to compete in a market which is not only saturated with wine, but also cheap wine — which he feels exchanges the 'buy for the experience' to the 'search for the lowest price'.

On offer from Mason's is the Shiraz Reserve 2003 — a full-bodied, Barossa style wine with hints of prune, black cherries and pepper, and the Shiraz 2004 which oozes hints of rich cherries and raspberries.

Leader of the pack

Being a mountain biker I was pleased to hear that Lieb Loots — the maker of Blyde — was also into the sport.

I immediately begain to rattle off, not having the foggiest that he'd just completed the 2007 Crocodile Trophy in Australia (1400km in hot dusty conditions), and that he is one of the top masters riders from the Southern Cape, especially since his modesty was so pronounced.

Mountain-biking wasn't the only thing he was modest about. His wine — born out of a garage he rents on Paarl's Main Street is certainly worth noting. He does however admit that he loves drinking it himself — maybe that's what gives him the edge on the bike.

His Bona Dea — a blend of Shiraz (40 percent), Cabernet Sauvignon (32 percent) and Merlot (28 percent) — is a easy-drinking, velvety wine with pizzazz.

Yes, it's red!

Unfortunately we did not have enough time to visit Retief Wines, owned by fourth generation Graham Retief, but the wines spoke for themselves.

Like Mason's, the Retief farm was primarily been used for table grape growing over the years, but the well drained east-facing slopes on the farm — Uitkyk — are ideal for high-quality grapes.

Retief makes two wines. 'Above the Mist' 2005, which is made from the grapes on the upper slopes of the farm and the easy-drinking 'And yes, it's red' 2004, which is said to be best with the addition of some biltong and rugby to watch.

'Above the Mist' certainly is a quality wine, a blend of Merlot (60 percent) and Shiraz (40 percent). It's lightly wooded with a complexity of spices and smoothness — I would say ideal for that Christmas Eve dinner.

'And yes, it's Red' is made up of Merlot, Shiraz and Cabernet Savignon, and is an unfiltered blend, integrated with plum, berry and spicy overtones.

The importance of experience

On my way back to Cape Town, I contemplated the characters I had met and how their wines had been so much part of their personality, and how when I tried them again it would not just be the taste that I would be enjoying, but the process in which they were made and the passion that was put into them.

So my conclusion: Boutique may not be predictable, but it certainly is the best kind of wine — one that's cared for, has memories attached to it and one that you feel proud to drink. No more of the local supermarket's cheapest for me — I'm all for the experience.

Food, fire and love

Food, fire and love
Article By: Thamar Houliston
Mon, 26 May 2008 16:07

Appetite and sex are no doubt some of the greatest motivators of the human age, but in these virtual days of instant satisfaction — online shopping, McDonald's drive-through, dial-a-pizza — we often take food for granted, raping it of its seductive charm and on occasion — any real quality or flavour whatsoever.

Apparently, food and sex are themselves linked in the limbic systems of our brains — the control centre of emotional activity. Thus "good food=good sex", or so the passionate Natale Schotti teaches in her Seduction Food cookery class.

Natale believes that people who do not love food have robbed themselves of an immense source of bliss and joy, and she lives by the idea that the love and the enjoyment of food allows us all to create even more of the same in other spheres of our lives.

My partner and I are at 'Eleven', Woodstock's new cookery school where they teach you to "put some romance back in your life through the slow seduction of food".

"This recipe will entice your lover, and trust me it works," confesses Natale, a knowing smile on her face as we mash capers and anchovies together, fondling the heady mixture with our naked fingers…

"Now add fresh basil," she commands, and "smell the mixture".

I lean over my cutting board and draw in the scent — it's astonishingly pleasurable, even for someone who is averse to both capers and anchovies.

Natale's sensuous voice cuts through the air, prompting us to let go of any inhibitions, feel our food, get in touch with it, and it's just then that the champagne begins to kick in… allowing me to frolic happily in my very own little kitchen complete with sink, stove, pots and pans…

Cooking for love

First on the menu tonight is Salsa Vittorio with hot buttered asparagus spears and artichoke flowers. Although I have no idea what this is, it sounds romantic. Asparagus and artichokes themselves are said to be aphrodisiacs, if not for their actual properties, rather for asparagus's phallic representation, and the artichokes' buttery texture.

The Food Seduction cookery course promises to assist you in planning a three-course meal, seducing your partner along the way, with the aromas and visual appeal of the feast.

Once we have fused leeks, garlic, paprika and cumin with oregano, lemon zest, chilli, basil and red peppers (some of us more viciously than others — the pungent smell of burnt leeks permeating the kitchen), we fold in the prawns with the buttery asparagus and artichokes and our starter is ready.

The main course consists of a chunk of red meat — "protein for passion", notes Natale — lovingly caressed and pressed by us, until it's ready for searing…

The ovens are lit, and it's time to insert our fillets covered in cream cheese, homemade Napolitano sauce and mozzarella, gently laid on a bed of fresh basil.

Natale goes on to elaborate on her aesthetic love of food and how each of us needs to get in touch with what we are eating. Stroke it, experience it…

We sit down to dinner with our fellow students and the results of the meal are incredible. The tender steak melts in my mouth; the artichokes are creamy and indulgent with a sharp lemon tinge from the zest we added, while the rich tomato sauce brings a completely new dimension to the dish. Still I cannot help devouring the bread which Natale has prepared, heavenly, soft, warm…

Then came the double chocolate macadamia tart — the climax of the evening — which Natale prepared for us. Two layers of pure decadence on a bed of soft pastry. This sealed the deal — I'm in love…

Experience it yourself

The course takes approximately two to three hours to complete, after which you can enjoy your creation with your fellow students.

Situated in Woodstock, Cape Town, the school offers secure parking with 24-hour security. Please contact Eleven on +27 21 461 3820 or e-mail Glynnis Roberts at principal@11cooks.com for more information.

Cooking with a Star

Cooking with a Star
Article By: Thamar Houliston
Tue, 10 Jun 2008 08:03

My love for Asian food is unashamed. Not only did I spend a year in Taiwan sampling the local delicacies — some of which I actually loved — but on any given day you'll find me eyeing out the latest cook-in peanut sauce at Woolies, ordering Jungle curry at my local hangout or simply browsing Claremont's Mainland China convenience store. If I'm making dinner my guests know what's on the menu — Pad Thai noodles with chicken, ostrich in red curry, sushi...

Unfortunately my Asian cooking abilities are more infamous than renowned, especially since I have a slightly heavy hand ('Chilli? What chilli?').

So when I was invited to famed Irish and Michelin-star Chef Conrad Gallagher's 'Cooking live with Conrad' course at Geisha Wok and Noodle Bar I leaped at the opportunity, my chopsticks sharpened in anticipation.

Conrad's approach is a fresher, less fattening and more Euro-friendly one to Asian cooking — 'Asian Fusion' is the term. He believes in small portions and lots of different dishes to taste, such is the style of Geisha Wok and Noodle Bar.

Chilli-lime Wok-fried Salmon with Edamame

"First rule," says Conrad, "Asian food is never overcooked, it's always crisp and fresh, and it's actually very simple..."

A juicy steak of Norwegian salmon rests on the preparation board, waiting for Conrad to work his magic.

"Make an incision in the skin," says the master.

Conrad heats the wok on an open gas stove without oil! Once the wok is scorching hot, he takes it off drizzles some peanut oil onto it (be careful when trying this at home).

In an amiable Irish accent Conrad explains that it's all about the "craft of cooking" — it's how you cook the food that makes all the difference.

He drops the fresh fish into the wok and there's a notable sizzling noise, "this is how it's meant to sound".

"Add some sea salt; let the fish relax for a bit, and then seal in the favour by turning it on all sides."

We "ooohhh" and "aaahhh" between sips of champagne and Fleur Du Cap Sauvignon Blanc.

He adds a little coconut milk for texture, lime chilli and a little sugar for flavour .

Just like that, it's done.

Conrad spoons some soya bean puree into a small silver sauce holder and turns it upside-down onto the plate (so that's how they make gourmet cooking look so good) and places the salmon day gently on top. Then he drizzles some chilli oil on the plate and adds some soya beans — a masterpiece made in about five minutes!

With every dish that followed Conrad made us repeat the essentials of Asian cooking — "garlic, ginger, lemongrass, chilli, coriander..." these make every meal.

But I won't give any more secrets away, in case you would like to join Conrad for one of his courses. The next class will be taking place on 26 July 2008. The class which commences at midday costs R395 per person and includes lunch and a Conrad Gallagher apron.

Lucky for you I took notes so here are two of Geisha's famous recipes you can make at home:

Wok-fried Beef Fillet with Chestnut mushrooms, Glass noodles and Ginger-coconut sauce...

Ingredients:


Beef fillet, finely sliced x 480g

Ginger, grated x 20g

Garlic, finely chopped x 20g

Chilli, finely chopped x 20g

Chestnut mushrooms, half sliced, half quartered x 160g

Mange tout x 120g

Red pepper, julienne x 80g

Spring onion, finely sliced on bias x 60g

Purple basil, julienne x 20g x 4 sprigs

Pickled ginger x 20g

Bean sprouts x 40g

Glass noodles, soaked in water x 160g

Coconut milk x 250ml

Ginger, grated x 50g

Salt and pepper to taste

Peanut oil

Method:

Heat coconut milk, add 50g grated ginger. Allow to infuse for one hour, strain.
Heat wok to smoking (very!) hot over gas.
Add a small amount of peanut oil, sprinkle beef over hot surface of wok, season with salt and pepper.
Allow to sear on one side.
Toss beef and add chilli, ginger and garlic.
Add vegetables and stir fry until tender crisp drop noodles into boiling salted water for about 10 seconds and remove.
Add to wok with vegetables and beef.
Pour ginger coconut sauce over and allow to soak into noodles and reduce.
Season with salt and pepper again if necessary.
Serve in 4 bowls, sprinkle julienne of purple basil, top with small mound of bean sprouts, pickled ginger and sprig of purple basil.

Wok-fried chicken with mango sauce on Udon noodles

Serves four:

Ingredients:


Chicken breast fillets, finely sliced x 480g

Ginger, grated x 20g

Garlic, finely chopped x 20g

Chilli, finely chopped x 20g

Purple and chinese cabbage, sliced x 160g

Mange tout x 120g

Red onion, julienne x 80g

Edamame (fresh soy beans), picked out of pods x 80g

Spring onion, finely sliced on bias x 60g

Mango, julienne x 80g

Dried chilli flakes x 10g

Toasted peanuts, chopped x 30g

Lime wedge x 4

Fresh udon noodles x 400g

Mango in syrup — one 410g tin

Salt and pepper to taste

Peanut oil

Green part of spring onion
— Julienned (cut into strips lengthwise)

Method:

Puree tin of mango in syrup in blender. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Heat wok to smoking (very!) hot over gas. Add a small amount of peanut oil, sprinkle chicken over hot surface of wok, season with salt and pepper.
Allow to sear on one side. Toss chicken and add chilli, ginger and garlic.
Add vegetables and stir fry until tender crisp drop noodles into boiling salted water for about one minute and remove. Add to wok with vegetables and chicken. Pour pureed mango over and allow to soak into noodles and reduce.
Season with salt and pepper, if necessary.
Serve in four bowls. Garnish with dried chilli flakes, toasted peanuts, lime wedge, mango julienne and spring onion julienne.

To reserve your seat contact Candice on +27 82 905 0566 or e-mail candice@conradgallagher.com

The eating marathon

The eating marathon
Article By: Thamar Houliston
Thu, 26 Jun 2008 11:52

The rain lashes my windscreen as I drive along Klein Constantia Road squinting to see the sign for Buitenverwachting. The area is familiar to me but as the road stretches further and further I begin to head into unknown territory...

Buitenverwachting is one of the 'big five' farms on the Constantia wine route, and I'm ashamed that I have not until today managed to pay a visit. But today isn't just about wine tasting, as I'm visiting Buitenverwachting Restaurant for Edgar's Chef's table.

Apparently, Austrian-born chef, Edgar Osojnik, has been wowing guests here for over a decade now, serving both gourmet and al fresco at the farm's Café Petit and fine dining restaurant. I'm about to find out for myself.

Our extensive table, seating a dozen foodies, overlooks part of the vineyard which stretches up to the foothills of the Constantiaberg. The farm extends over a considerable 150 hectares of which 100 hectares is cultivated with vines.

Director of Buitenverwachting, Lars Maack, who's obviously quite passionate about the vines, tells stories of baboons which sabotage the grapes regularly, while Yolanda, Edgar's wife and events manager, chuckles as she recalls watching Lars sprinting down the hill which is in front of us, chasing a male baboon.

The warm-up

Suddenly I notice the menu before me — 12 courses to get through — paired, of course, with 12 different wines. I'm seriously regretting missing gym this morning...

The first starter is the most visually appealing — a perfectly round Vegetable Tian (layers of veggies) with Micro Rucola and Olive Vinaigrette as well as a Goat's Feta Crostini (glorified toast) on the side — luckily the serving is bite-size.

The tian is paired with Buitenverwachting's Chardonnay 2005, a light almost fruity strain of Chardonnay which hints at lemon and almonds. Although an appropriate combination, the wine certainly outdoes the dish, but the presentation certainly deserves some attention.

Next up is the Iced Crayfish with Melon, which is the most controversial. Served with sorbet and perfectly carved melon balls which look like caviar, it's undoubtedly food art by Picasso himself.

Pairing the dish with the Natural Sweet was a mistake, I think to myself, as the honey-rich flavours of the wine begins to overpower the icy flavours of the dish.

Edgar loves this dish, while Lars tends to avoid it, and I must say that I would have to side with Lars, but perhaps on a sunny summer day it would be an ideal starter.

As we begin chatting, I realise that the legendary Lannice Snyman — food writer and cookbook icon — is sitting next to me. We all discuss the judging of the World's Top 50 Restaurants which Lannice is involved in, and she mentions that she's bringing out a new cookbook.

My mind races to places yonder... El Bulli in Spain, the number one restaurant on the list which is open for six months of the year only and delivers avant-garde cuisine on the Costa Brava, with scenery that thrills the senses almost as much as the food does. Maybe someday...

The Trio of Norwegian Salmon with Cos Lettuce and Sauce Remoulade arrives, a more traditional dish, which any salmon lover would no doubt relish. The Blanc de Noir 2008 was an ideal match — the fresh yet subtle flavours allowing the salmon to flourish in my mouth.

The next dish, the Pan-fried Prawns set on Avocado and Laksa Vegetables create a delicate taste explosion, perhaps it was the cold avo set against the warm prawns that was the catalyst. I can't complain about the choice of wine either — 'Hussy's Vlei' Sauvignon Blanc 2007.

Seafood seems to be the order of the day, as a dish of Pan-fried Scallop with its own Springroll and Roasted Sweetcorn Sauce is placed before me. It's warm and I nestle in, and taste... the heavenly sweetcorn sauce complimenting the springroll beautifully...

A palate of colours

Next up was the Spinach, Tomato and Garlic Confit Soup with an assortment of lamb. Hmm... a definite winter warmer. Each soup is served in a tot glass which I sip on between the lamb pot pie, and other thumb-size versions of lamb prepared in a variety of ways — the tomato soup by far my favourite...

The wine — Christine 1998 — is a blend named after Lars's mother and Buitenverwaching's signature wine, which offers rich berry flavours with beautiful nutty and wood vanilla characters.

I glance at the wine glasses littering the table, filled with an autumn-like array of colours, and then the next dish arrives — the Seared Tuna set on Wasabi Risotto with Kassler sauce — a carefully crafted canvass, painted with the purple of the tuna, wasabi green of the risotto rice, and bright orange of the sliced carrots.

This dish was mind-altering. The flavours of the slightly seared tuna magnified by the melt-in-your-mouth wasabi risotto, with the Kassler sauce almost altering the taste of the tuna, to the point where I wondered if I was still eating fish! And by far the best pairing to boot — The Gewürztraminer 2005.

I cannot eat anymore, it's like the 36th kilometre where you know you're almost at the end of the marathon, but you just cannot go anymore. The difference here being that it's not torture — quite the opposite in fact...

Now for something completely novel — Lannice and I scour the menu — Guinea Fowl Crepinette with Almond Risotto.

"Guinea fowl is a difficult one, it's impossible to cook and a lot of the time people just get it wrong," notes Lannice.

No doubt Lannice isn't disappointed. The fowl is done to perfection, and is paired with the rich Merlot 2002, a fitting choice.

The home stretch

Maybe it's because I recently started to appreciate red meat, or perhaps it's the cold wintry weather outside that's affected my tastebuds, but by far the best so far is the Pan-Fried Beef Fillet in a Bone Marrow Crust with Red Wine Shallot Jus and Potato-Porcini Rosette. The meat is juicy and rich, but soft on the chew — the marrow-bone crust adding that needed tinge of saltiness...

To go with the beef fillet is Christine 2003, which I actually prefer over its predecessor.

Okay, I am done, full, overs... but alas I cannot stop here. Out comes the Grilled and Pan-fried Springbok with Christine Sauce and Parsnip Puree. I can't comment on this one, as I've just had the fillet which was out-of-this-world, maybe if I had had the springbok standalone? No, an admirable effort, but the beef definitely wins the day. The Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, however, is one of the best reds of the day — lingering hints of blackcurrant...

The Trio of Naartjies is refreshing after the rich reds (meat and wine), served with the Buiten Brut.

And then finally, we come to the end of the road — the Chocolate Variation — which the foodie across the table has been waiting for with baited breath, being a regular visitor. The assortment of chocolate was divine and the little grand piano almost too charming to devour.

I congratulate myself on a four-hour marathon of eating, only to realise that this kind of preparation took discipline of a different kind. Hats off then to the chef and his team...

A lovely atmosphere, a heap of food ingenuity, and a dash of comfort and charisma makes Buitenverwachting ideal for lunch and dinner.

Buitenverwachting, Klein Constantia Road, Constantia, Cape Town. Contact the restaurant on +27 21 794 3522.

'Anything but minimalist'

'Anything but minimalist'
Article By: Thamar Houliston
Tue, 31 Jul 2007 12:34

Distinguished fashion designer, Marianne Fassler, has a unique style which combines high European fashion with exotic African flavour.

Her work can be described as amusing, timeless, wearable and feminine, with Marianne paying particular attention to not only the style and quality, but also the feel of the fabric.

Woman and choice

"Fashion is about choice," she exclaims, "people will only wear what they want and unless you are a serious fashion victim — women will dress to please themselves".

Marianne also believes that instant fashion is obsolete the minute it appears in store — copied from garments shown on the ramps months before. So, instead of following fashion, Marianne encourages her clients to develop their own personal style and to mix and match garments.

"I love to see how the right garments give women confidence," says Marianne.

Africa is also a constant source of inspiration for Marianne and is the creative core of everything that she creates.

So what's in store?

Of her showing at this year’s Fashion Week, Marianne says the show will be, "anything but minimalist".

Her range will be identifiably, almost vintage 'Fassler', with all its attention to detail, prints, finish and silhouette.

"Fassler at best is about being very contemporary as well as totally timeless," says Marianne.

Garments are in a range of fabrics and styles and include evening wear through to day wear. So be sure not to miss out on Marianne Fassler's collection at Fashion Week.

Behind the Madiba Shirt

Behind the Madiba Shirt
Article By: Thamar Houliston
Tue, 17 Jul 2007 16:09

Capturing the Rainbow Nation on fabric is not easy, but for Desre Buirski it’s been the most incredible experience making shirts for Madiba…

It started out as a big dream for a tiny person, but Desre did not anticipate that the dream could be this big — and more importantly this fulfilling.

As the designer of Madiba’s shirts Desre has been awe-inspired by his friendship — and no doubt Madiba has been touched by her generous gifts of silk shirts.

Back in 1994 when South Africa was still an uncertain place, Desre was not focused on the negative but was instead intrigued and inspired by the natural creative spirit of Africa and African design.

Blessed meeting

At a synagogue in Cape Town in 1994 Desre handed the soon to be Presidential Shirt to one of Mandela’s bodyguards on the 7 May and just two weeks later he wore the famous 'Fish Shirt' in public for the first time — to the dress rehearsal of the opening of South Africa's first democratic Parliament.

One year later she was officially making shirts for Mandela, and although her business taken off slowly, the reward has been in the friendship that Desre has developed with "the father of Africa — and the world", as she describes him.

Mandela, Desre says, "is the most incredible superhuman" and being in his presence is just "the most humbling experience".

Desre has always been inspired by the creative spirit of Africa, and the hand painted silk shirts are an extension of this.

Mandela’s favourite tones are the more earthy colours and that’s how the shirts started out, but fittingly they soon branched out into colours “that cover the entire rainbow”.

Desre has now made over 100 shirts for Madiba — shirts that have no doubt been to the most special occasions.

Memorable moments

So what’s Desre’s most memorable experience with Mandela?

"It's just been the most amazing experience" she reiterates, "but my two favourite experiences with Mandela... being introduced to Bill Clinton as his official shirt designer and being seated next to him at his staff Christmas in 1999".

Desre has also supplied Bruce Springsteen and Stevie Ray Vaughan with her shirts over the years, as well as a host of parliamentarians and ambassadors to South Africa.

She says that the most wonderful things have come from her friendship with Madiba and she has been so blessed by their meeting — and there are even more wonderful things in the pipeline for the future.

For more about the Presidential Shirt visit Desre Buirski's site www.presidentialshirt.co.za or to see the magic shirt in action visit her site's Presidential Shirt library.

Pure simple with a kick

Pure simple with a kick
Article By: Thamar Houliston
Thu, 30 Aug 2007 13:07

Black Coffee has always had an unconventional approach to design, but when we had to pile into a bus (with one dodgy bus driver) in order to see their collection at SA Sanlam Fashion Week, they took it to a whole new level of creativity…

Although it was a fantastic idea to show their latest spring/summer line outdoors (under a full moon nogal), the darkness distracted a little from this majestic collection. However, if it was mystery they were trying to create they achieved it, with a number of virginal models sauntering eerily down the walkway in front of the Constitutional Court on Constitution Hill.

Emphasis on innovation

For those of you who don’t know what the Constitutional Court is, it was established in 1994 by South Africa's first democratic constitution, and its new home — in the heart of the Joburg CBD — was born of a remarkable and uniquely inclusive process whereby young South African architects had the opportunity to design the building themselves. And, as South Africa's first major post-apartheid government building, it was designed to embody the openness and transparency called for by the Constitution itself.

Perhaps then, a fitting place for a South African-born collection to show, especially with Black Coffee’s emphasis on innovation.

Established in 1997, Black Coffee’s label first showed at Sanlam SA Fashion Week in 1999 and immediately received the respect of South Africa’s fashion media. They have now grown and have achieved many awards in various fashion competitions for outstanding design.

The two-designer team, Jacques van der Watt and Danica Lepen, share a passion for fabrics such as pure cotton knits, Italian Nappa leather, pigskin suede, silk chiffon, cotton mesh and Chantilly lace.

Spring/summer ‘07…

This season’s collection was a sultry mix of luscious flowing fabrics which are easy on the eye and soft to touch. Shorts, skirts, dresses and flowing one-pieces characterised by their voluminous layers and an interesting array of necklines.

Garments are flexible as well as classically beautiful — with one particular dress in their range even boasting the ability to be worn a dozen different ways…

The collection epitomises the Black Coffee label — pure simple with a kick.

Fashion with a heart

Fashion with a heart
Article By: Thamar Houliston
Wed, 11 Jun 2008 16:02

There's been a wave of 'green' consciousness of late, but what about social consciousness? One German couple was so inspired by South Africa that they found a way to combine the two, in the form of the 'Give-it-Bag'.

Talking at the recent Fashion Exchange +27 event the creators of the bag — Philip Booth and his wife Regina Booth — told the story of how 'Give-it-Bag' came about.

"Our love for this part of the world drew us to Cape Town where a renovation project was our first introduction to rubble bags. Here they're sold in DIY shops to carry construction rubble in, so they're really strong. And they look so cool because the print is always different."

"Seeing as though we were looking for a way to make the world a slightly better place, a bit of a brainstorm lead to the birth of 'Give-it-Bag'. We came up with a design for the bag, bought an old sewing machine and started stitching like crazy, cutting up bags and washing them, and then we began to look for a more experienced production partner."

'Profitable fashion with a heart'

Since Regina had worked as an art director and in the corporate advertising business for several years, she had the know-how to not only create the product but advertise it too.

Their idea soon grew into a flourishing business — "profitable fashion with a heart". Fifty percent of their profits go to disadvantaged people and projects that the couple select themselves.

"We consciously decided not to put the money into already existing charity organisations, we wanted an up-to-date decision on which social activities were most needed in our direct environment," says Philip.

And they have already dedicated their time and money to a number of 'social activities'.

Says Philip, "we gave new footballs to township kids in Khayelitsha; we bought food, clothes, medication and other necessities for a wheelchair-dependant old man on the streets in Cape Town; we supported a local school in Lesotho with stationary books etc.; and we cared for the hundreds of Zimbabwean refugees waiting for their work permits at the harbour at Heerengracht street".

On top of that they bought 12 new eye lenses for cataract operations in a Hospital in Eerste River, near Cape Town, where a couple of local eye surgeons performed day of operations, bringing light into the lives of about 12 people.

Pay it forward

They have added to their thriving business by borrowing from the concept of 'Pay it Foward' and have created a website — www.giveitbag.com — where you can buy one of the bags from anywhere in the world. Each bag has a unique number and you automatically become of member of this good deed society.

The idea is that you tell others about your good deed and inspire them to get involved, or you can post a wish and give someone will have the opportunity to make it come true.

For instance when Regina's phone got stolen she posted a wish and someone in Germany had his old one delivered to her — how's that for social responsibility across the globe?

How the bags are made

Bags full of rice, coffee, tea, sugar, and salt... all make their way to Cape Town from every corner of the world. 'Give-it-Bag' partners who are all locals, collect the empty bags and they then look through the lot to choose the ones that would make great bags. Once this is done, the bags are cut and cleaned. When they're happy with the final cut, they are delivered to their bag-making partner.

No effort is spared to produce the best quality bags. Each piece of rubble bag fabric is cut by hand with a heat cutter to keep the edges from fraying. The fabric and lining change continually so there's no cast-in-stone production process. It would've been cheaper if they were 'made in China', but the couple are completely committed to keeping it local. Not just the bags, but the labels, stickers and packaging, are all made in South Africa.

'Give-it-bag' tries hard to follow their principles of using local production as well as recycled materials.

According to the couple, 'Give-it-Bag' meets the need of a consciously living, globally-aware society — "people want to know what they are buying and where and how it was produced".

This little success story shows that businesses with a heart really can flourish, it's all about finding the right product and creating an idea around it that's hard not to take notice of...