Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Love on a teaspoon at Genot






Love or hate Valentine's Day, you can't ignore it, and so I thought why not embrace it, and head to romantic Franschhoek for a quiet lunch at Klein Genot's new restaurant — Genot.


The massive bleach-white building that houses Genot is blinding in the bright sunlight — a beacon set apart from the rolling vineyards. The interior however is cool and tame — its brickface walls contrasted with smatterings of mod décor.


As you walk up the stairs leading to the restaurant you brush past the black and white Allegre Damask velvet wallcovering, which is oh-so fashionable at the moment (I think I prefer the design as gift wrap though).


On the far side of the restaurant there's a huge wall clad with cut logs bringing the outdoors in, and on the opposing end there is an open kitchen smothered in silver, and alive with chefs at work.


The ceiling is high and sports chandeliers which fall from the bare industrial ventilation. And so, in the sweltering heat, Genot certainly is a sanctuary of cool from where you can take in the breathtaking beauty of the surrounding mountains and vineyards.


The love menu


Genot's menu changes weekly, uses fresh local ingredients and has a distinctly African flavour, says Chef Mark Radnay, who greets us just after arrival. Mark has extensive experience, especially with new ventures such as this one, as the former owner of Yum, and part of the team that helped launch Overture Restaurant at Hidden Valley.


Today we won't be trying the regular menu, but rather the set Valentine's menu, which consists of a starter, fish course, sorbet, mains and dessert.


As there were two choices for each course we decided to share (it being V-Day and all).


While the wine list is a representation of the finest local wines found in the Franschhoek Valley, I thought it appropriate to try Klein Genot's own wines, and furnished with a glass of Klein Genot Merlot — a well-balanced wine which boasts a spicy plum character — it was time for starters.


On offer, the Thai-style Gazpacho Soup with tempura prawn, coconut, fresh mint and pickled mangos, as well as the Strawberry, Asparagus and Danish Feta Salad with a hazelnut-lime dressing.


An interesting take on gazpacho (chilled Italian-style soup), this particular version was just fiery enough to get the juices flowing and just refreshing enough to bring the temperature down. The addition of a slightly warm tempura prawn was nothing short of orgasmic.


The salad was also a winner, the strawberries and Danish feta, a heady combination, the bite of the mint just topping it off.


Heavenly creations


The fish course consisted of Oven Baked Linefish (Cape Salmon) with fynbos honey and green pumpkin seeds, and Confit of Salmon with fennel salad and caviar.


For those who like subtle flavours, the linefish was buttery with that melt-in-your-mouth texture and wasn't too distracted by the pumpkin seeds, honey or mash.


For those like me, with a sharper palate, the combination of rich pink salmon on crisp fennel was simply indulgent.


The palate cleansing Plum Tomato and Pepper Sorbet with fresh basil was more like ice and tomato juice with pepper — a bit of a disappointment.


Main course consisted of either Grilled Duck Breast with apple and ginger sauce or Rack of Lamb with gremolata, fine bean salad and red pepper fondue.


After flattening the glass of Merlot, I had to try the Klein Genot Shiraz to go with the meat dishes
— a light-style Shiraz, perfect for a summer's day, with a fresh fruity palate leading to a slightly
peppery finish.


The slivers of grilled duck were tender and flavoursome, but I didn't taste any apple and ginger
sauce — maybe due to my insensitive palate...


The lamb was wonderful — the red pepper fondue and bean salad complementing it perfectly.


For dessert we both tried the Decadent Chocolate Torte with Raspberry Soufflé and Cardamom
Parfait.


The torte was decadent but somewhat burnt and the warm raspberry soufflé wasn't my cup of tea,
but the cardomom parfait did things to my mouth that not even I thought possible. Simply put —
love on a teaspoon.


Usual fare


The regular menu at Genot boasts starters such as the Caesar Salad with anchovies, crispy bacon
and parmesan crouton (R48), as well as Rooikrans Smoked Snoek Quiche with apricot chutney
and side salad (R46).


The meat dishes have local flare with choices like Traditional Cape Springbok Bobotie (R90) and
Chargrilled Kudu Loin on herbed polenta with tomato chutney (R140).


There's also plenty in the way of fish, from Grilled Silverfish with aioli crushed potato salad and
sauce Vierge (R88) to Giant Tiger Prawns with chermoula or peri-peri served with rice and veg
(R220).


Desserts like the Vanilla Pod Crème Brulee with apricots and an almond koeksister and Roasted
peaches, nectarines and plums with champagne sabayon are in the region of R40, while the Genot
cheese board which serves two (and I must say looks grand) — and which comes with agrodolce,
roasted nuts, marinated olives, balsamic strawberries, and a selection of cheeses served with
freshly baked breads — will set you back R110.


A romantic modern setting with tantalising food and amiable staff, Genot is definitely worth a visit
when travelling through the winelands.


The 100-seater restaurant can also be booked out for private functions and weddings.


For reservations call Genot on +27 21 876 2729 or visit target=new>www.kleingenot.com for more info.

The Pasta Factory



There's something about Italian that I find irresistible. It could be the smooth curls, the silky texture or maybe because it's naturally so um... fresh? No I'm not talking about that sweet-talking Italian with his pointy leather shoes; I'm talking about homemade Italian pasta.


Forget Fatti's and Moni's, I was never sold on the whole idea of pasta in a box in any case; it just seems so... boring!


Over the years I have avoided the stuff like the plague (especially those pre-race carbo-loading affairs), unless of course it's that homemade variety at Pick n Pay that's made of egg or spinach... something with a little more pizzazz for your penny.


Call me a pasta snob; I just don't do no-name-brand specials, no matter how cost-effective they may be. It's a student affair. Full stop.


The real deal


This brings me to the topic of my encounter with the Pasta Factory, one that I've been meaning to have for a while now, except they were never open at night before. And now that they are, I thought a little rendezvous would be appropriate.


A haven for eTV employees during the day, The Pasta Factory, which nestled on Park Road in Gardens (next to Rick's Cafe and across the road from Greens), is a little quieter at night.


Owner Juliane and her daughter Katherina run the show, and have an inherited knowledge of the 'how-to' of pasta making, with fresh seasonal ingredients and warm personal touch to boot...


The industrial-style space is first and foremost a 'pasta factory' where pasta is made. But then of course you get to try your factory fare (cooked in front of you) at the establishment as well.


What's on the menu


To start there's also a ton of antipasti (think fresh bruschetta, Carpaccio and traditional Vitello Tonnato) that you can try, and like any Italian eatery there's pizza on offer too.


Fussy foodies like myself can choose rye or whole-wheat pasta in the form of Tagliatelle, Conchiglie, Linguine, Fusilli, Pappardelle, Mafaldine, Penne-Rigate, Potato Gnocchi or Spaghetti.


There's everything from the authentic Traditional Beef Bolognese (R40) and Alfredo (R42), to the more excitable Manzo — beef strips and fresh rocket with Bianca sauce and pecan nuts (R48) as well as some filled pasta.


On my visit I tried the Smoked Salmon Ravioli (R40) with Rosa sauce, fresh coriander and lemon zest. Wonderfully simple, the dish's flair lies in the pasta itself...


I was rather impressed with their winelist, which they put together themselves, with some firm favourites like Haute Cabriere Chardonnay/Pinot Noir, the Fat Bastard label, Warwick's 'First Lady' and Diemersfontein Pinotage making the cut. And appropriately I even saw a Sangiovese on offer.


The Pasta Factory also do great cappuccinos (I unashamedly had two) as well as authentic desserts like Cassata (R20), Italian Cornetti (R22), Nutella & Fresh Fruit Pizza (R35), and even a Banana Split Pizza (R25).


The breakfast menu is worth investigating (in terms of price anyway), with the likes of Bacon, Egg, Tomato fried or scrambled eggs served on ciabatta or croissant (R30), or how about Smoked Salmon Trout with scrambled egg on a croissant (R30)?


The Pasta Factory is decidedly cheaper than most eateries in the city, which offer decent chow, and certainly a cut above anything that comes in a box (oh and you can buy your own pasta here to take home — in a packet, naturally).


The Pasta Factory is open from 8am-11pm from Monday to Saturday. For more information visit www.pastafactory.co.za.

The Grand life



Walking through the colossal Indian-style doors of The Grand in Plettenberg Bay, is like Alice entering Wonderland.


The place is almost indescribable, open to so many interpretations. Opulent red velvet chairs scattered around the entrance hall (which leads to the dining area) severely contrast the rustic rundown walls cluttered with dusty bookshelves laden with heavyset books.


Then there's the eccentric touch — out-of-place pictures, over-the-top gold candleholders and some unique improvisation on the décor front.


I soon realised that The Grand shatters any kind of preconceptions you have about luxury. Like the Matrix baffles Neo, so this experience baffled me, until the story unravelled itself.


Changing rooms


The first room I stayed in was open-plan, its stone floors only emphasising the size of the place.


The bed set near the balcony (with a view over Lagoon Beach) was so high that the Tokoloshe wouldn't stand a chance. Again the Alice in Wonderland type feeling — 'Is the bed big or am I just really small?'


Nevertheless your every whim is catered to and there are bed stools for 'your highness' to get up onto the bed with.


The next quirk — the bathroom is completely open, except for a wooden divider which obviously isn't soundproof. And so if you're sharing with a partner your boundaries will be stretched just that much further. No mysteries here...


After staying in a five-star hotel just a few days before, at first I scoffed at the imperfectness of the place, its sometimes awkwardness (open bathrooms and the like) and the blatant casualness of the staff.


But after venturing out for that day coming 'home' to a friendly non-judgemental smile made a world of difference. At The Grand there are no airs and graces.


Since every room at The Grand is unique, we were moved into the bathhouse for the next evening.


As you enter there are two Victorian style bathtubs next to each other amidst a pool of candles and ambient lightening.


Then again the high-set bed fit for a king. And the most impressive part — your own outdoor pool with outdoor shower.


It's reminiscent of a Spanish Villa, and almost lends towards a day spent indoors, as you really don't need to go anywhere. Talk about real relaxation.


Food and wine


Having the option to dine at The Grand Cafe (you might know its sister in Camps Bay) meant that my room was only a stone's throw away, which was rather convenient especially after a bottle of wine.


Their menu isn't extensive but it's homely, and there is enough variety to suit every palette.


In Hemingway style, there's a rather large cocktail menu, but the first and second night my partner and I simply opted for a simple bottle of Porcupine Ridge Syrah, which at home is one of our favourites.


The mellow music, candles, mirrors, old-school piano and buzzing atmosphere (with the restaurant being packed by the end of the night), all set the stage for a terribly romantic evening.


Mesmerized we shared an ice berg lettuce salad and then munched on steak and chips, and then moved to the outside area to star-gaze while we shared one times outstanding affogato.


On evening two we had to try the lamb curry which everyone was raving about. The couple next to us even suggested we try it. It was exceptional as predicted.


When it comes to breakfast you can have all the usual and more. The English Breakfast has to be the best I have had. The French toast with bacon a very close second.


Lunches are light and innovative which is just as well. The smoked salmon with Naan bread and cream cheese is a winner.


Added bonus


On day two, just as I was getting into the swing of things, I was treated to a massage at The Grand. They have a variety of beauty therapists on call, so you can have any kind of treatment done in your hotel.


Tranquil music complemented the sound of a trickling fountain outside, while I was enjoying my 'full-body' massage. Sigh, what a hard life...


If you're looking for somewhere to really 'get away' then The Grand is the place. If you're rigid don't bother, unless of course you want to be stretched.


For a day or two I really became accustomed to Wonderland, its unpredictability and sense of freedom being something that I now realise should totally be treasured on a holiday.


For more information or to make a booking visit www.thegrand.co.za