Knysna rediscovered

I have many memories of Knysna in July, from overindulging in oysters and champagne after a strenuous mountain bike through the lush forests of the area, to waving at celebrity Will Smith (the TV maths guy) while running the Featherbed Trail run — a pristine place to run if there ever was one.

Yes, I am a regular to the crowd-pulling Oyster Festival, but I thought it would be a great idea to visit pre-fest.

Don't get me wrong, the Heineken storm-in-a-teacup party after the marathon is delightfully festive, the oyster shucking competitions and Mardi Gras (eat as many gourmet oysters as you can) is worth every penny, and while the general mayhem of frozen bodies huddling next to fires before the marathon is just as appealing (for crazy people like me anyway), in my old age I honestly could do without the crowds and the tussle for a little piece of paradise.

So with floods threatening the Cape, I took a random Friday off in June and headed to Knysna with a jam-packed itinerary ahead of me.

Day one

First stop — lunch at Sirocco.
Situated on the water's edge of Knysna's trendy Thesen Harbour, it's separate from the hustle of town and those jam-packed restaurants. But naturally on an ordinary day in June nothing in Knysna is busy (cue sigh of relief).

Sirocco is a vibey lunch and dinner time venue, a meeting place for those who appreciate relaxed sophistication, cutting-edge design and innovative food.

My Smoked Salmon Wonton Stack — layers of smoked Norwegian salmon, rocket, fennel hollandaise and crispy wonton served with a chilli and paw-paw dressing — and glass of chilled white wine, was just enough to fill the gap.

Next, check in time. My partner and I booked into The Moorings. And no you haven't heard of it, it's brand spanking new.

Situated along the banks of the Knysna Lagoon, and very close to Loerie Park (where all the sporting activities during the festival start from), it's an extremely convenient location, with the bonus being it's secluded.

The apartments are top-notch self-catering units simply perfect for a family weekend away. Ultra-modern, they sport all the latest fixtures and fittings and, of course, balcony and braai space.

'...A horribly romantic experience...'

Just when we were getting settled into our cosy apartment, it was time for our trip on the Paddle Cruiser.

The Paddle Cruiser offers both lunch time (12.30pm departure) and evening (6.15pm departure) cruises, and is the only vessel of its kind in South Africa.

The steely-blue water of the lagoon was still until the wheels of the vessel started to churn, chugging along towards The Heads as the sun slipped into the clouds. On the way back the stars twinkled overhead. A horribly romantic experience.

Dinner at Cruise Café followed. This trendy restaurant is situated very close to the Knysna Waterfront and is known for its fresh seafood and modern-styled cuisine, and of course exceptional views of the Knysna Lagoon, both day and night.

Day two

The weather had finally followed us to Knysna and so we had to cancel our Featherbed Eco Experience, which I will have to venture back for.

This four-hour excursion to Featherbed (across the lagoon on the other Knysna Head), starts with a 25-minute ferry cruise, where a local guide shares fascinating tales about the Lagoon, the early shipping industry and oyster cultivation. On arrival at the reserve visitors can enjoy a drive to the top of the Western Head in a 4x4 unimog vehicle, stopping at a magnificent view point en route. After the drive, your specialist guide will take you on an optional 2.2 kilometre downhill walk which is meant to be spectacular. Ah well, next time...

The 'Island of Bread'

Instead we huddled in the warmth of Mon Petit Pain, a local breakfast spot which is a sister to the ultra popular Ile de Païn or 'Island of Bread' run by Liezie Mulder, dynamic chef and author, and baker Markus Färbinger.

At Mon Petit Pain pastries and crusty breads rule the roost, while the atmosphere smacks of creativity. After ordering about four of their cappuccinos, we scoffed down their to-die-for muesli with fresh fruit and something resembling apple strudel. Lovely. Then we managed space for the 'David' — a slice of their signature bread topped with creamy eggs and salty bacon, served on a bread board. Delicious.

Well-oiled for the day we headed out to the Wild Oats Farmer's Market in Sedgefield, which is about a 10-minute drive, and is open every Saturday morning

Locals browsed the market which offers lots of fresh produce and homemade tasties, many of them clad in Wellington's and Scottish caps, trying to avoid mud puddles. It felt like we had been transported to some country district in the UK, especially in the rainy weather... But with over 60 stalls of the finest local farm produce, it's confidently an authentic taste of the Garden Route.

Fresh from the sea

After indulging in some fudge from the local fudge factory stand (with flavours like biscotti and dark chocolate, yum!) we made our way back to Knysna for another feasting experience.

The well-known 34 Degrees South is a deli, wine shop, bakery, clothing store, sushi bar and restaurant. Located at the Waterfront (right on the water's edge) it's a vibey spot for a drink or a light lunch, with deli food available at the restaurant.

If you're in Knysna for the oysters then a visit to 34 Degrees South is a must. Not to worry if one of your party doesn't eat oysters, they have just about everything imaginable on their menu.

We were in the mood for the light lunch option and so shared some sushi followed by a plate of juicy prawns. The rainy weather was ideal for browsing the shop so we took full advantage...

Getting up close and personal

The next experience would go down in the history books as one of the most incredible ever, and even more so since I didn't really know what to expect on arrival at the Elephant Sanctuary on the Saturday afternoon.

It's first and foremost a safe haven or 'halfway house' for elephants, and secondly a place where you can learn about and interact with these gentle giants.

As our guide explained what would happen next, I started to feel rather nervous — the reality of an up close and personal experience with an elephant instilling awe and a little fear in me.

The elephants that we were introduced to on the day are in their teenage years and are not to be toyed with. I could feel their majestic presence as we walked up to them and placed one hand in our designated elephant's trunk.

What happens is you walk your elephant to the nearby forest where guides then explain more about the elephants, their anatomy and behaviour.

I must say that I never realised that these creatures were so intelligent and downright amazing.

And then, just when I was starting to feel a little more at ease, we were offered a ride on the elephants.

As we circled the property, the elephant slowly rocking me from side to side, I felt as though I had touched Africa, I had finally become one with her, now I felt like a real African. "Why on earth had I had never had this experience before?" I thought.

The program is an hour long and costs R295 per adult and R150 per child. Something you definitely have to do with your kids. A ride (which is 10 minutes long is R375 per adult and R200 per child). Afterwards you can also buy a DVD of yourself with the elephants to remember those special memories.

Spices to light up your night

After many years of driving into Knysna and looking longingly across the lagoon to the red cottage that houses Firefly Eating House, wishing for a visit like a kid wishes for Christmas, I finally got my wish.

Fairy lights dance at the entrance of the establishment which honestly looks a little rundown from the outside, but is vibrant and warm thanks to the splash of fiery red paint that the proprietors have given it.

Firefly's cuisine is a hodgepodge of Indian, Malay, Thai, Chinese and African — perfect for a cold winter's evening.

We had some rather interesting food, from Sherry Nutmeg cocktails, bobotie spring rolls, to an African beef dish with 23 spices, as well as their famous liquorice ice cream. What an enchanting evening!

Day three

Sunday the weather had taken a good turn and I couldn't think of a better way to start the day than with a gentle run along the lagoon, birds jovially splashing in the shallow water.

And of course after some strenuous activity one needs a wholesome breakfast. Why not try Pezula, or Zachary's to be exact? The birds-eye view from the resort is breathtaking (situated on the Eastern Head) — the waterways of the Knysna lagoon, sweeping Indian Ocean and even the Outeniqua mountains unfolding in the distance.

What's more, Zachary's has a seasonal brunch menu which includes buttermilk flapjacks with bacon and maple syrup, Shitake mushroom omelettes, smoked catfish and poached egg atop seed loaf, besides the obvious continental breakfast. You also have more lunch-like options like soup, roasted organic veggies, salad or pasta to choose from.

Zachary's (lovingly named after the chairman's Labrador) also does lunch and dinner menus, and offers world-class cuisine.

Explore the waterways

Last but not least we hired canoes at Lightleys Holiday Houseboats to explore the waterways of the lagoon. A great alternative activity, which will definitely give you some 'quality' time with your partner. One hour is R60; two hours will cost you R90 and a full day R275. Not bad for an expedition into the unknown.

As we wove our way towards a steel bridge in the distance, ducks dived underwater and flocks of birds near the water's edge scurried for safety. I was surprisingly warm for a winter's day.

What warmed me up even more was the picnic lunch that was packed for us. Having docked our canoes on the shores below the rusty old bridge we made faces for our camera and popped a mini bottle of bubbly to celebrate our arrival.

These decadent picnic hampers which are available to order cost R150 for two. Packed with tasty treats like cranberry and camembert chicken skewers, mini quiches and chocolate truffles amongst other things, it's the perfect way to spend a lazy winter day, without the guilt factor naturally...

It was back to Cape Town and reality, but with even more wonderful memories of the beautiful haven that is Knysna.

For more on what to do in Knysna visit Knynsa Tourism's website. For more info on the Pick n Pay Knysna Oyster Festival visit www.oysterfestival.co.za