Friday, July 17, 2009

Ghosts in my soup


Steeped in myth and mystery, an evening at Cloete's restaurant at the Alphen Country House Hotel in Constantia is like a game of murder mystery.


On arrival we're met by two ghosts, the first Dr James Barry (who looked more like a women to me) and the second, Johannes, the ghost of slave from a past era — probably the early 19th century.


My partner started wolfing down the roasted duck spring rolls with plum and sesame dip unperturbed, while I sipped on my glass of High Constantia bubbly, perplexed.


On further investigation and another peculiar visit from slave-boy Johannes (who I am sure I recognise from the Baxter theatre), it turns out that as the story goes, Dr Barry was in fact was a military surgeon in the British Army who served in South Africa. Although Barry lived his adult life as a man, it's widely believed that Barry was female and previously named Margaret Ann Bulkley, but chose to live as a man so that he might become a surgeon.


My fingers stained red


As the warm brie parcel melted in my mouth, the raspberry foam staining my fingers, I contemplated how different life must have been back then.


But the terrifying tales don't end there: Dr Barry had a dual with Captain Josias Cloete over the affections of one Miss Dreyer (a beautiful specimen who once lived at The Manor House). Neither was hurt, but a startling encounter nonetheless.


The Alphen dates back to the 17th century and there are many such mysteries that have been uncovered over the years. The first proprietor of the estate was Jacob Cloeten — a soldier from Cologne in Germany — who sailed to South Africa with Jan van Riebeeck in 1652.


My partner and I were at Cloete's for its reopening after a long winter of sensitive refurbishment (the old building needing close and careful attention to unlock its former beauty).


We were seated below a devilish looking painting that haunted me as we dined on Chef Simon Kemp's ethereal white tomato soup, which in fact tasted divine.


Finally, after tending to my succulent venison Carpaccio with to-die-for white truffle oil, I leant over to one of our fellow diners — an artist himself — and enquired about the painting.


The dead cat


A visual feast, which you either 'love or hate', the painting is the work of Penny Siopis (who previously and in our lifetime won the Young Artist Award). It was commissioned for Nicky and Dudley Cloete-Hopkins in the late 1980's.


It's a family portrait that features the couple and their children, Alexander, Delia and Nicolas, who were rather upset on the day that Penny visited them because their cat had died. Naturally Penny included the dead cat (times two) in the painting, adding to its eerie constitution with fiery red backdrop.


As we drank from the extensive wine list, dedicated to the Constantia valley, we tried more of Simon's cuisine inspired by the Alphen's historical roots.


Cured salmon gravadlax stood astute upon chive crème frâiche, capped with caviar and saffron dressing. Next a crayfish bisque and, then, fillet in a Port wine reduction, cemented in gorgonzola melt.


The dessert was wonderful — coconut and cardamom crème brulee, with sesame fried bananas — and it reminded me of a trip to the East.


If you're looking for an evening of discovery then you can head to Cloete's, at a reasonable price too — a two-course meal will cost you R160 and three-courses R200. Not bad for a meal at a historical gem, that's if you don't mind the ghosts in your soup of course...


Constantia, Cape Town. Contact them on +27 21 794 5011 or visit www.alphen.co.za


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Knysna rediscovered


I have many memories of Knysna in July, from overindulging in oysters and champagne after a strenuous mountain bike through the lush forests of the area, to waving at celebrity Will Smith (the TV maths guy) while running the Featherbed Trail run — a pristine place to run if there ever was one.


Yes, I am a regular to the crowd-pulling Oyster Festival, but I thought it would be a great idea to visit pre-fest.


Don't get me wrong, the Heineken storm-in-a-teacup party after the marathon is delightfully festive, the oyster shucking competitions and Mardi Gras (eat as many gourmet oysters as you can) is worth every penny, and while the general mayhem of frozen bodies huddling next to fires before the marathon is just as appealing (for crazy people like me anyway), in my old age I honestly could do without the crowds and the tussle for a little piece of paradise.


So with floods threatening the Cape, I took a random Friday off in June and headed to Knysna with a jam-packed itinerary ahead of me.


Day one


First stop — lunch at Sirocco.
Situated on the water's edge of Knysna's trendy Thesen Harbour, it's separate from the hustle of town and those jam-packed restaurants. But naturally on an ordinary day in June nothing in Knysna is busy (cue sigh of relief).


Sirocco is a vibey lunch and dinner time venue, a meeting place for those who appreciate relaxed sophistication, cutting-edge design and innovative food.


My Smoked Salmon Wonton Stack — layers of smoked Norwegian salmon, rocket, fennel hollandaise and crispy wonton served with a chilli and paw-paw dressing — and glass of chilled white wine, was just enough to fill the gap.


Next, check in time. My partner and I booked into The Moorings. And no you haven't heard of it, it's brand spanking new.


Situated along the banks of the Knysna Lagoon, and very close to Loerie Park (where all the sporting activities during the festival start from), it's an extremely convenient location, with the bonus being it's secluded.


The apartments are top-notch self-catering units simply perfect for a family weekend away. Ultra-modern, they sport all the latest fixtures and fittings and, of course, balcony and braai space.


'...A horribly romantic experience...'


Just when we were getting settled into our cosy apartment, it was time for our trip on the Paddle Cruiser.


The Paddle Cruiser offers both lunch time (12.30pm departure) and evening (6.15pm departure) cruises, and is the only vessel of its kind in South Africa.


The steely-blue water of the lagoon was still until the wheels of the vessel started to churn, chugging along towards The Heads as the sun slipped into the clouds. On the way back the stars twinkled overhead. A horribly romantic experience.


Dinner at Cruise Café followed. This trendy restaurant is situated very close to the Knysna Waterfront and is known for its fresh seafood and modern-styled cuisine, and of course exceptional views of the Knysna Lagoon, both day and night.


Day two


The weather had finally followed us to Knysna and so we had to cancel our Featherbed Eco Experience, which I will have to venture back for.


This four-hour excursion to Featherbed (across the lagoon on the other Knysna Head), starts with a 25-minute ferry cruise, where a local guide shares fascinating tales about the Lagoon, the early shipping industry and oyster cultivation. On arrival at the reserve visitors can enjoy a drive to the top of the Western Head in a 4x4 unimog vehicle, stopping at a magnificent view point en route. After the drive, your specialist guide will take you on an optional 2.2 kilometre downhill walk which is meant to be spectacular. Ah well, next time...


The 'Island of Bread'


Instead we huddled in the warmth of Mon Petit Pain, a local breakfast spot which is a sister to the ultra popular Ile de Païn or 'Island of Bread' run by Liezie Mulder, dynamic chef and author, and baker Markus Färbinger.


At Mon Petit Pain pastries and crusty breads rule the roost, while the atmosphere smacks of creativity. After ordering about four of their cappuccinos, we scoffed down their to-die-for muesli with fresh fruit and something resembling apple strudel. Lovely. Then we managed space for the 'David' — a slice of their signature bread topped with creamy eggs and salty bacon, served on a bread board. Delicious.


Well-oiled for the day we headed out to the Wild Oats Farmer's Market in Sedgefield, which is about a 10-minute drive, and is open every Saturday morning


Locals browsed the market which offers lots of fresh produce and homemade tasties, many of them clad in Wellington's and Scottish caps, trying to avoid mud puddles. It felt like we had been transported to some country district in the UK, especially in the rainy weather... But with over 60 stalls of the finest local farm produce, it's confidently an authentic taste of the Garden Route.




Fresh from the sea


After indulging in some fudge from the local fudge factory stand (with flavours like biscotti and dark chocolate, yum!) we made our way back to Knysna for another feasting experience.


The well-known 34 Degrees South is a deli, wine shop, bakery, clothing store, sushi bar and restaurant. Located at the Waterfront (right on the water's edge) it's a vibey spot for a drink or a light lunch, with deli food available at the restaurant.


If you're in Knysna for the oysters then a visit to 34 Degrees South is a must. Not to worry if one of your party doesn't eat oysters, they have just about everything imaginable on their menu.


We were in the mood for the light lunch option and so shared some sushi followed by a plate of juicy prawns. The rainy weather was ideal for browsing the shop so we took full advantage...


Getting up close and personal


The next experience would go down in the history books as one of the most incredible ever, and even more so since I didn't really know what to expect on arrival at the Elephant Sanctuary on the Saturday afternoon.


It's first and foremost a safe haven or 'halfway house' for elephants, and secondly a place where you can learn about and interact with these gentle giants.


As our guide explained what would happen next, I started to feel rather nervous — the reality of an up close and personal experience with an elephant instilling awe and a little fear in me.


The elephants that we were introduced to on the day are in their teenage years and are not to be toyed with. I could feel their majestic presence as we walked up to them and placed one hand in our designated elephant's trunk.


What happens is you walk your elephant to the nearby forest where guides then explain more about the elephants, their anatomy and behaviour.


I must say that I never realised that these creatures were so intelligent and downright amazing.


And then, just when I was starting to feel a little more at ease, we were offered a ride on the elephants.


As we circled the property, the elephant slowly rocking me from side to side, I felt as though I had touched Africa, I had finally become one with her, now I felt like a real African. "Why on earth had I had never had this experience before?" I thought.


The program is an hour long and costs R295 per adult and R150 per child. Something you definitely have to do with your kids. A ride (which is 10 minutes long is R375 per adult and R200 per child). Afterwards you can also buy a DVD of yourself with the elephants to remember those special memories.


Spices to light up your night


After many years of driving into Knysna and looking longingly across the lagoon to the red cottage that houses Firefly Eating House, wishing for a visit like a kid wishes for Christmas, I finally got my wish.


Fairy lights dance at the entrance of the establishment which honestly looks a little rundown from the outside, but is vibrant and warm thanks to the splash of fiery red paint that the proprietors have given it.


Firefly's cuisine is a hodgepodge of Indian, Malay, Thai, Chinese and African — perfect for a cold winter's evening.


We had some rather interesting food, from Sherry Nutmeg cocktails, bobotie spring rolls, to an African beef dish with 23 spices, as well as their famous liquorice ice cream. What an enchanting evening!


Day three


Sunday the weather had taken a good turn and I couldn't think of a better way to start the day than with a gentle run along the lagoon, birds jovially splashing in the shallow water.


And of course after some strenuous activity one needs a wholesome breakfast. Why not try Pezula, or Zachary's to be exact? The birds-eye view from the resort is breathtaking (situated on the Eastern Head) — the waterways of the Knysna lagoon, sweeping Indian Ocean and even the Outeniqua mountains unfolding in the distance.


What's more, Zachary's has a seasonal brunch menu which includes buttermilk flapjacks with bacon and maple syrup, Shitake mushroom omelettes, smoked catfish and poached egg atop seed loaf, besides the obvious continental breakfast. You also have more lunch-like options like soup, roasted organic veggies, salad or pasta to choose from.


Zachary's (lovingly named after the chairman's Labrador) also does lunch and dinner menus, and offers world-class cuisine.


Explore the waterways


Last but not least we hired canoes at Lightleys Holiday Houseboats to explore the waterways of the lagoon. A great alternative activity, which will definitely give you some 'quality' time with your partner. One hour is R60; two hours will cost you R90 and a full day R275. Not bad for an expedition into the unknown.


As we wove our way towards a steel bridge in the distance, ducks dived underwater and flocks of birds near the water's edge scurried for safety. I was surprisingly warm for a winter's day.


What warmed me up even more was the picnic lunch that was packed for us. Having docked our canoes on the shores below the rusty old bridge we made faces for our camera and popped a mini bottle of bubbly to celebrate our arrival.


These decadent picnic hampers which are available to order cost R150 for two. Packed with tasty treats like cranberry and camembert chicken skewers, mini quiches and chocolate truffles amongst other things, it's the perfect way to spend a lazy winter day, without the guilt factor naturally...


It was back to Cape Town and reality, but with even more wonderful memories of the beautiful haven that is Knysna.


For more on what to do in Knysna visit Knynsa Tourism's website. For more info on the Pick n Pay Knysna Oyster Festival visit www.oysterfestival.co.za

Protect yourself from Swine flu



Professor John Oxford, the chairperson for the Global Hygiene Council and expert on Swine, as well as Professor Barry Shoub and Dr Kgosi Letlape, both members of the Hygiene Council, speak to us about the pandemic...


You are in SA for the annual Global Hygiene Council meeting, what is the agenda of this meeting?


"This is actually part of a world tour. Basically we are here to discuss the findings of our International Hygiene Study 2009 and also the hot topic of Swine flu," says Oxford.


"The study in particular reveals trends on hygiene levels in households in different countries and where the infection hotspots lie. For example, highchairs where babies are fed are fraught with bacteria as well as the kitchen towel. These surfaces are a key aid in viral infections as well."


"Viruses stick to your hands and are transferred to these surfaces, thus spreading influenza and similar diseases."


Letlape says: "This study highlights areas where behaviour can be changed in the home in order to prevent the spread of diseases. Fifteen percent of households in South Africa actually only use water and no soap to wash their hands. This is something we want to change."


Lastly, Shoub, who is somewhat of an expert on Swine flu notes: "Swine flu is now a formal pandemic and we have an official confirmed case in South Africa (a 12-year-old boy), which is an isolated case, but this won't be for long.


"The virus is bound to be introduced, although we have reached the peak of it right now. What we want to do is help the ordinary man on the street protect himself.


"This is by informing people about coughing/sneezing etiquette, washing of hands with disinfectant like Dettol, and keeping of social distances from those who are sick."


How representative is this study?


Says Oxford, "it's a snap sample from eight different countries, where 1000 people answered questionnaires in each country and 29 families were studied".


"We have been doing this for several years now though so we can definitely see trends that have developed."


A large number of South Africans are not educated or don't necessarily have access to information. How is the council educating people?


Says Letlape, "You will actually be amazed how even rural people in South Africa are educated about these things and how information does filter through to these areas".


"People rock up to vote don't they? How do you think they get this information? A lot of people hear things through the radio, TV and even through their communities."


"Many educated people are actually the ones that don't use this information, I mean how many educated people will go into a restroom and not wash their hands, I think you will be amazed," adds Oxford.


"Oh and for more information on how you can protect yourself go to www.hygienecouncil.com"


There a lot of myths surrounding Swine flu, for example, can you get it from walking past someone in the street?


Professor Shoub answers, "Basically you get it from other people coughing and sneezing and the droplets going into your respiratory tract, or touching something and then putting your hand to your nose or mouth".


"So no, I wouldn't say you can get it from someone in the street, unless they happen to sneeze in your face. It's mainly through close contact in a confined space.


"With airplanes you won't actually get it in the air since there are filters in a plane, but soon as you are grounded waiting to get off the plane you could certainly get it. Even a taxi from the airport is a more likely place to get it, because it's a confined space..."


The World Health Organisation has declared a pandemic. What is a pandemic?


"A pandemic is when there are sustained transmissions", says Shoub. "The disease has spread across all regions and therefore it is a pandemic. Also diseases spread much quicker these days because of air travel."


Apparently a number of companies are testing vaccines, when do you think they will be approved by?


"These usually take four to six months, so probably around September this year," says Oxford.


What about Tamiflu?


"Tamiflu (as well as another drug called Relenza) has helped a lot but what we are trying to emphasise that good hygiene is the first step to preventing the spread of the flu, along with these other drugs and eventually the vaccine as well," says Oxford.


"Many places in South Africa have run out of Tamiflu," says Shoub, "as there was an initial panic, but I think it should be in stock in pharmacies. It's more for more severe cases of flu rather than mild cases, so pharmacies should only give it out accordingly".


See the video of Professor Oxford:











2009 Hygiene in the Home Study: Key findings


The following information refers to samples taken from 20 homes in the eight different countries: Australia, Germany, India, Malaysia, Saudi Arabia, South Africa, UK, and USA, as part of the Hygiene in the Home Study 2009, carried out by the Hygiene Council.


The information also refers to the results of a questionnaire completed by an inhabitant of each of the homes in each of the countries. Householders were asked a series of questions, including how often they clean selected household items, how they rate the cleanliness of their homes and which items they think harbour most bacteria.


Global


The kitchen cloth is one of the dirtiest items in the home. Overall, 86 percent of cloths were found to be unsatisfactory or worse, with 76 percent being heavily contaminated or poor. It would appear that the kitchen cloth often gets overlooked when it comes to cleaning with the majority just rinsing it in washing up liquid.


Kitchen cloths and taps are dirtier than toilet flushes and toilet door handles. While 86 percent of kitchen cloths and 52 percent of kitchen taps were found to be unsatisfactory or worse, only 15 percent of toilet flushes and 16 percent of toilet door handles were unsatisfactory or worse.


More highchairs or places where children eat (19 percent) have unsatisfactory or worse levels of bacteria than toilet flushes (15 percent) and five percent of highchairs (or places where children eat) are contaminated with E. coli. This is concerning as only a few organisms of some strains of E. coli could result in severe illness in children. Surprisingly, eight percent of householders admitted to never cleaning the highchair.


In South Africa?


South Africa, overall, has a reasonable level of home hygiene (77 percent of results were satisfactory and three percent were spotless, however 15 percent of samples were heavily contaminated).


The dirtiest item in the South African household is the kitchen cloth, with 85 percent being heavily contaminated — 50 percent with E. coli.


Almost a third of kitchen taps in South Africa are unsatisfactory, making them the second dirtiest item in the home.