Love on a teaspoon at Genot

Love or hate Valentine's Day, you can't ignore it, and so I thought why not embrace it, and head to romantic Franschhoek for a quiet lunch at Klein Genot's new restaurant — Genot.

The massive bleach-white building that houses Genot is blinding in the bright sunlight — a beacon set apart from the rolling vineyards. The interior however is cool and tame — its brickface walls contrasted with smatterings of mod décor.

As you walk up the stairs leading to the restaurant you brush past the black and white Allegre Damask velvet wallcovering, which is oh-so fashionable at the moment (I think I prefer the design as gift wrap though).

On the far side of the restaurant there's a huge wall clad with cut logs bringing the outdoors in, and on the opposing end there is an open kitchen smothered in silver, and alive with chefs at work.

The ceiling is high and sports chandeliers which fall from the bare industrial ventilation. And so, in the sweltering heat, Genot certainly is a sanctuary of cool from where you can take in the breathtaking beauty of the surrounding mountains and vineyards.

The love menu

Genot's menu changes weekly, uses fresh local ingredients and has a distinctly African flavour, says Chef Mark Radnay, who greets us just after arrival. Mark has extensive experience, especially with new ventures such as this one, as the former owner of Yum, and part of the team that helped launch Overture Restaurant at Hidden Valley.

Today we won't be trying the regular menu, but rather the set Valentine's menu, which consists of a starter, fish course, sorbet, mains and dessert.

As there were two choices for each course we decided to share (it being V-Day and all).

While the wine list is a representation of the finest local wines found in the Franschhoek Valley, I thought it appropriate to try Klein Genot's own wines, and furnished with a glass of Klein Genot Merlot — a well-balanced wine which boasts a spicy plum character — it was time for starters.

On offer, the Thai-style Gazpacho Soup with tempura prawn, coconut, fresh mint and pickled mangos, as well as the Strawberry, Asparagus and Danish Feta Salad with a hazelnut-lime dressing.

An interesting take on gazpacho (chilled Italian-style soup), this particular version was just fiery enough to get the juices flowing and just refreshing enough to bring the temperature down. The addition of a slightly warm tempura prawn was nothing short of orgasmic.

The salad was also a winner, the strawberries and Danish feta, a heady combination, the bite of the mint just topping it off.

Heavenly creations

The fish course consisted of Oven Baked Linefish (Cape Salmon) with fynbos honey and green pumpkin seeds, and Confit of Salmon with fennel salad and caviar.

For those who like subtle flavours, the linefish was buttery with that melt-in-your-mouth texture and wasn't too distracted by the pumpkin seeds, honey or mash.

For those like me, with a sharper palate, the combination of rich pink salmon on crisp fennel was simply indulgent.

The palate cleansing Plum Tomato and Pepper Sorbet with fresh basil was more like ice and tomato juice with pepper — a bit of a disappointment.

Main course consisted of either Grilled Duck Breast with apple and ginger sauce or Rack of Lamb with gremolata, fine bean salad and red pepper fondue.

After flattening the glass of Merlot, I had to try the Klein Genot Shiraz to go with the meat dishes
— a light-style Shiraz, perfect for a summer's day, with a fresh fruity palate leading to a slightly
peppery finish.

The slivers of grilled duck were tender and flavoursome, but I didn't taste any apple and ginger
sauce — maybe due to my insensitive palate...

The lamb was wonderful — the red pepper fondue and bean salad complementing it perfectly.

For dessert we both tried the Decadent Chocolate Torte with Raspberry Soufflé and Cardamom
Parfait.

The torte was decadent but somewhat burnt and the warm raspberry soufflé wasn't my cup of tea,
but the cardomom parfait did things to my mouth that not even I thought possible. Simply put —
love on a teaspoon.

Usual fare

The regular menu at Genot boasts starters such as the Caesar Salad with anchovies, crispy bacon
and parmesan crouton (R48), as well as Rooikrans Smoked Snoek Quiche with apricot chutney
and side salad (R46).

The meat dishes have local flare with choices like Traditional Cape Springbok Bobotie (R90) and
Chargrilled Kudu Loin on herbed polenta with tomato chutney (R140).

There's also plenty in the way of fish, from Grilled Silverfish with aioli crushed potato salad and
sauce Vierge (R88) to Giant Tiger Prawns with chermoula or peri-peri served with rice and veg
(R220).

Desserts like the Vanilla Pod Crème Brulee with apricots and an almond koeksister and Roasted
peaches, nectarines and plums with champagne sabayon are in the region of R40, while the Genot
cheese board which serves two (and I must say looks grand) — and which comes with agrodolce,
roasted nuts, marinated olives, balsamic strawberries, and a selection of cheeses served with
freshly baked breads — will set you back R110.

A romantic modern setting with tantalising food and amiable staff, Genot is definitely worth a visit
when travelling through the winelands.

The 100-seater restaurant can also be booked out for private functions and weddings.

For reservations call Genot on +27 21 876 2729 or visit target=new>www.kleingenot.com for more info.