Article By: Thamar Houliston
Thu, 26 Jun 2008 11:52
The rain lashes my windscreen as I drive along Klein Constantia Road squinting to see the sign for Buitenverwachting. The area is familiar to me but as the road stretches further and further I begin to head into unknown territory...
Buitenverwachting is one of the 'big five' farms on the Constantia wine route, and I'm ashamed that I have not until today managed to pay a visit. But today isn't just about wine tasting, as I'm visiting Buitenverwachting Restaurant for Edgar's Chef's table.
Apparently, Austrian-born chef, Edgar Osojnik, has been wowing guests here for over a decade now, serving both gourmet and al fresco at the farm's Café Petit and fine dining restaurant. I'm about to find out for myself.
Our extensive table, seating a dozen foodies, overlooks part of the vineyard which stretches up to the foothills of the Constantiaberg. The farm extends over a considerable 150 hectares of which 100 hectares is cultivated with vines.
Director of Buitenverwachting, Lars Maack, who's obviously quite passionate about the vines, tells stories of baboons which sabotage the grapes regularly, while Yolanda, Edgar's wife and events manager, chuckles as she recalls watching Lars sprinting down the hill which is in front of us, chasing a male baboon.
The warm-up
Suddenly I notice the menu before me — 12 courses to get through — paired, of course, with 12 different wines. I'm seriously regretting missing gym this morning...
The first starter is the most visually appealing — a perfectly round Vegetable Tian (layers of veggies) with Micro Rucola and Olive Vinaigrette as well as a Goat's Feta Crostini (glorified toast) on the side — luckily the serving is bite-size.
The tian is paired with Buitenverwachting's Chardonnay 2005, a light almost fruity strain of Chardonnay which hints at lemon and almonds. Although an appropriate combination, the wine certainly outdoes the dish, but the presentation certainly deserves some attention.
Next up is the Iced Crayfish with Melon, which is the most controversial. Served with sorbet and perfectly carved melon balls which look like caviar, it's undoubtedly food art by Picasso himself.
Pairing the dish with the Natural Sweet was a mistake, I think to myself, as the honey-rich flavours of the wine begins to overpower the icy flavours of the dish.
Edgar loves this dish, while Lars tends to avoid it, and I must say that I would have to side with Lars, but perhaps on a sunny summer day it would be an ideal starter.
As we begin chatting, I realise that the legendary Lannice Snyman — food writer and cookbook icon — is sitting next to me. We all discuss the judging of the World's Top 50 Restaurants which Lannice is involved in, and she mentions that she's bringing out a new cookbook.
My mind races to places yonder... El Bulli in Spain, the number one restaurant on the list which is open for six months of the year only and delivers avant-garde cuisine on the Costa Brava, with scenery that thrills the senses almost as much as the food does. Maybe someday...
The Trio of Norwegian Salmon with Cos Lettuce and Sauce Remoulade arrives, a more traditional dish, which any salmon lover would no doubt relish. The Blanc de Noir 2008 was an ideal match — the fresh yet subtle flavours allowing the salmon to flourish in my mouth.
The next dish, the Pan-fried Prawns set on Avocado and Laksa Vegetables create a delicate taste explosion, perhaps it was the cold avo set against the warm prawns that was the catalyst. I can't complain about the choice of wine either — 'Hussy's Vlei' Sauvignon Blanc 2007.
Seafood seems to be the order of the day, as a dish of Pan-fried Scallop with its own Springroll and Roasted Sweetcorn Sauce is placed before me. It's warm and I nestle in, and taste... the heavenly sweetcorn sauce complimenting the springroll beautifully...
A palate of colours
Next up was the Spinach, Tomato and Garlic Confit Soup with an assortment of lamb. Hmm... a definite winter warmer. Each soup is served in a tot glass which I sip on between the lamb pot pie, and other thumb-size versions of lamb prepared in a variety of ways — the tomato soup by far my favourite...
The wine — Christine 1998 — is a blend named after Lars's mother and Buitenverwaching's signature wine, which offers rich berry flavours with beautiful nutty and wood vanilla characters.
I glance at the wine glasses littering the table, filled with an autumn-like array of colours, and then the next dish arrives — the Seared Tuna set on Wasabi Risotto with Kassler sauce — a carefully crafted canvass, painted with the purple of the tuna, wasabi green of the risotto rice, and bright orange of the sliced carrots.
This dish was mind-altering. The flavours of the slightly seared tuna magnified by the melt-in-your-mouth wasabi risotto, with the Kassler sauce almost altering the taste of the tuna, to the point where I wondered if I was still eating fish! And by far the best pairing to boot — The Gewürztraminer 2005.
I cannot eat anymore, it's like the 36th kilometre where you know you're almost at the end of the marathon, but you just cannot go anymore. The difference here being that it's not torture — quite the opposite in fact...
Now for something completely novel — Lannice and I scour the menu — Guinea Fowl Crepinette with Almond Risotto.
"Guinea fowl is a difficult one, it's impossible to cook and a lot of the time people just get it wrong," notes Lannice.
No doubt Lannice isn't disappointed. The fowl is done to perfection, and is paired with the rich Merlot 2002, a fitting choice.
The home stretch
Maybe it's because I recently started to appreciate red meat, or perhaps it's the cold wintry weather outside that's affected my tastebuds, but by far the best so far is the Pan-Fried Beef Fillet in a Bone Marrow Crust with Red Wine Shallot Jus and Potato-Porcini Rosette. The meat is juicy and rich, but soft on the chew — the marrow-bone crust adding that needed tinge of saltiness...
To go with the beef fillet is Christine 2003, which I actually prefer over its predecessor.
Okay, I am done, full, overs... but alas I cannot stop here. Out comes the Grilled and Pan-fried Springbok with Christine Sauce and Parsnip Puree. I can't comment on this one, as I've just had the fillet which was out-of-this-world, maybe if I had had the springbok standalone? No, an admirable effort, but the beef definitely wins the day. The Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, however, is one of the best reds of the day — lingering hints of blackcurrant...
The Trio of Naartjies is refreshing after the rich reds (meat and wine), served with the Buiten Brut.
And then finally, we come to the end of the road — the Chocolate Variation — which the foodie across the table has been waiting for with baited breath, being a regular visitor. The assortment of chocolate was divine and the little grand piano almost too charming to devour.
I congratulate myself on a four-hour marathon of eating, only to realise that this kind of preparation took discipline of a different kind. Hats off then to the chef and his team...
A lovely atmosphere, a heap of food ingenuity, and a dash of comfort and charisma makes Buitenverwachting ideal for lunch and dinner.
Buitenverwachting, Klein Constantia Road, Constantia, Cape Town. Contact the restaurant on +27 21 794 3522.
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