Article By: Thamar Houliston
Wed, 16 Jul 2008 10:35
My introduction to fu.shi came, not at the restaurant itself, but at the Pick 'n Pay Mardi Gras in Knysna during the Knysna Oyster Festival, where a host of restaurants presented their most innovative oyster concoctions, and a number of wineries shared their wares, including bubbly…
Fu.shi's Glitzy Oyster in a Salmon Pashmina (oyster wrapped in salmon and drizzled with Bramon's Cap Classique Sauvignon Blanc — a local wine made at the Crags) was simple yet refreshing, and lead us more importantly, to the Bramon table across the way where we ended up spending a fair amount of the evening — and even to purchasing some bubbly black-market style.
Asian illusions
At fu.shi the following evening we met Executive Chef Vanie Padayachee originally from Durban — not the kind of chef you would imagine living in the holiday town of Plettenberg Bay…
Nonetheless, Vanie has put Plett on the culinary map, being one of the five finalists in the prestigious Sunday Times Chef of the Year competition this year. Each of the finalists, were selected because of their innovative menus. Other finalists included Chantal Dartnall (Restaurant Mosaic), Arnold Tanzer (Food on the Move), Noelle Bolton (fu.shi fusion cuisine), Andrew Atkinson (Michelangelo Hotel), and Carl Tichart (Cape Colony, Mt Nelson).
Unfortunately knowing all this, Vanie now had some great expectations to live up to.
The fine dining part of the Upper Deck in Plett, which also consists of a more relaxed BoMa terrace adjacent and a Chef's bar downstairs, fu.shi is not your usual run-of-the-mill Asian Fusion restaurant, it produces fine cuisine, aimed at customers who want a more elegant experience.
Taste sensations
I had a hard time trying to decide on what to drink, but decided on the Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel since my partner and I were sharing the Salmon Pearls (smoked salmon wrapped rice with caviar topping) off fu.shi's extensive sushi menu. My partner had the Haute Cabriére Chardonnay Pinot Noir — one of our all-time favourites…
Starters were a difficult choice, with tasty beginnings including Forbidden fruits of the Forest (warm chilli mushroom salad), Enchanted Moments (prawn cakes with spring onion, Asian greens and chilli sauce), and Golden Coins of Happiness (a variety of Dim Sum), being some of the options…
I think half the appeal and thus the choice dilemma was in the names — Sea Breeze at Dawn, Earthquakes under a stormy sky…
So I decided on the uncomplicated Tickled by a Feather — Coconut and chicken soup with lime and lemongrass infusion. The lemongrass wafted up into my nose on arrival and I felt like I was in a scene from 'Perfume' as the appreciation set in. It tasted splendid too…
My partner opted for Driftwood on a Wave (Vegetable dragon rolls and spicy potato samoosas with crunchy green salad and coriander pesto). The pesto made the dish, but the samoosas admittedly were a little cold.
Starters varied from R30 to R50 which is good value for money.
Food envy
Then it was time for mains. I was craving red meat, but when Vanie said that she was thinking of making the duck confit for me (R84) I agreed in glee. My partner ordered The Emperor's Delight — beef saltimbocca wrapped in Black Forest ham with butternut and potato compote and berry jus (R89).
Both meals were served in fine dining style — plates decorated with contrasting colours. The duck was served with mushroom risotto and the most heavenly Pak Choi (Chinese cabbage) ever. Apparently, Vanie has got many of the local farmers to start producing more exotic and organic fare, so I wondered if it was locally grown.
The duck was a little overdone, but duck is never easy to get right. The beef saltimbocca was superb — the taste of the berries and berry jus complemented the beef and ham perfectly, and I was especially envious of the little bowl of diced butternut and potato on the side. Luckily, my partner doesn't mind sharing.
Decisions, decisions…
Ok time for dessert, but what to choose? Romantic endings included Silken Moments of Desire (Cardamom Panna Cotta), Concubine's Whisper (chilli chocolate fondant with pistachio peanut brittle), Sensations and Seductions (Sticky cashew and mango brownie with mango ice cream) or Kissing Behind the Mountain (wasabi crème brulee).
Our waiter insisted we try Kissing Behind the Mountain, apparently something foreigners travel miles just to try, but I was also set on some rich chocolate to end off, so we ordered the wasabi crème brulee and the Concubine's Whisper. While the former certainly kick-started my tastebuds once again, the latter won the day — warm rich melt-in-your-mouth chocolate pudding with a little slap the face from the chilli (some would say kinky even).
All desserts cost thirty-something rand, which is standard.
All in all service was fantastic, the food inspirational to say the least, and the setting avant-garde yet warm and welcoming.
fu.shi fusion cuisine, Shop 9, The Upper Deck, No 3 Strand Street, Plettenberg Bay. Contact them on +27 44 533 6497/6489 or visit their website www.fushi.co.za
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